Wednesday - Whisky Galore

P.S. if anyone missed this as bed time reading last night. It was written in plenty of time but zero signal in the van and just out of range of pub wifi. Driving this morning there seems to be zero mobile on the island but down at the pier I'm hopefully able to send this via a very slooow Calmac free WiFi link.

Just a picture to make it the title picture, all will be revealed later

Before I start today's blog an exciting addendum to yesterday's. I think I already mentioned that the Balranald campsite is actually on the RSPB reserve. The reserve is famous for its work in saving the Corncrake from extinction in the UK. The birds are still extremely rare, and being shy are spotted rarely, but they have an unmistakable 'crek crek' call. Just before bedtime last night Liz heard a faint call, 30 minutes later there was an almost continuous call much louder, it really was unmistakable. And it was plenty loud enough for our bird song app Merlin to confirm the obvious identification. See, I told you that was exciting! Believe me it was for Liz and me, it was the main reason we chose the campsite 

It is blowing an absolute hooley when we wake up. The van's been rocking all night (in the wind, I'm not that lucky!). Opening the back door required a strong hand to stop it flying open. A quick check of the forecast and yes today is going to be ruddy horrible, strongs winds and heavy rain all day. And despite the apparent distance on the map it's only about an hour and a half down to our destination, the Isle of Eriskay. Oh well we'll have to engineer some stops.

BTW photos are few today, far too horrible to get out of the van or go visit tourist sites 

The first stop had hopefully been to a field where we think some Corncrakes might be, to see if we could spot one, but the weather has put paid to that. At least we've heard one! As a consolation we return to that Scandinavian Bakery on Grimsay. Once again excellent cake and coffee. On to Benbecula and that charity shop which was closed yesterday, another four CDs added to my collection! And just as importantly 20 mins killed, and in the warm and dry.

But now there there are no more stops planned . We'd like to stop at the Our Lady Of The Isles statue, built close to, and in protest of, the control centre for the rocket testing site but again it is just too horrible out there. 

Mainly single track roads and today traffic seems a bit heavier. Also it seems that the further south the more aggressive local drivers are, a few times locals sped through easily stoppable passing places forcing me to jam on the brakes or, on one occasion, reverse. And such actions, as well as pulling over to let vehicles behind pass, often got no acknowledgement. Compare and contrast with Lewis where a cheery wave was everywhere. 

The folks we felt most sorry for today were the cyclists doing the Hebridean Trail. It must have been incredibly hard in the strong wind, let alone the teeming rain. Even with good weather, cycling on narrow single track roads with aggressive local drivers must be unnerving.

S Uist itself is fairly flat and appears to be all open moorland with small lochs. It would probably appear bleak and desolate on a sunny day. Today's rain and ominous grey skies did it few favours!

Towards the bottom of the island of S Uist we spy a museum and craft shop. Another opportunity for a break. The museum is actually remarkably good, as well as a good range of exhibits it tries hard to counter the rose tinted view of the past, comparing idealising the simply rustic life with descriptions of the harsh realities. The seemingly wonderfully simple lifestyles of the black house dwelling islanders was more a story of permanent dampness, foul odours, and the ever present threat of cholera, dysentry, and consumption.

The museum also covered changes over time and featured a kitchen of the 60's. Who remembers these

We had one!

The wind is still blowing strong, with even stronger gusts, and the causeway to Eriskay is long. It's a scary prospect but surprisingly easier than I thought. The van has fared worse in lighter winds on English motorways where the side-swipe draughts from passing lorries have often rocked it off course slightly. 

Eriskay, and our destination Am Politician

We can sleep in its car park overnight. 

The pub is, of course, in honour of the SS Politician which, in 1941, floundered on nearby rocks and sank with cases of whisky, inspiring the 1949 film Whisky Galore. The pub has a few artifacts including a bottle or two and this one still containing whisky

  

We eat here. The only criticism of my Steak Pie was that the word "Challenge" was omitted from its menu description! It was huge, so huge I almost didn't have room for Cranachan as dessert (not the word "almost") there. Food prices were very good especially given portion sizes but drinks prices... £4.30 for a pint of Guinness, what is the world coming to! And some very good value whiskies, a Glenfiddich 18 year old Ancient Selection for just over a fiver had to be sampled. 

Oh and I noticed a mirror behind Liz so this shot had to be taken.

A much more linear day today so only 59 miles