Not my picture but I needed one for the post
Traffic was slow down through the other side of Whitby and once out of town we encounter the steep climbs up onto the N Yorks Moors. Steep 1st gear climbs all too often as it is also a preferred route of the serious cyclists who like to prove their mettle by slowly huffing and puffing up inclines cycles were never intended for!
Still some beautiful coastal scenery awaited us but, of course, anywhere photographic was deviod of parking.
All too soon it became more major roads as we skirted Redcar, Middlesbrough, and Sunderland. We passed the iconic Angel Of The North; we visited it about 10 years ago, back then the A1 had roadworks, a speed limit and a traffic jam. They still haven't fixed whatever they were doing as it's still the same!
Time to turn off for the first stop, we take the MetroCentre turn in Gateshead. Anyone who knows me knows that I'd probably choose a dental root canal filling over visiting a huge shopping centre but this was actually my idea! We are not heading for the centre itself but if one of the peripheral shops, Alpkit, purveyors of quality hiking and cycling gear (and generally well beyond our price range). But there's a sale and we might see something. A new top each, some coffee bags and still (just) a two figure debit on my credit card was a result really!
Onwards and soon a few miles north of Hexham the road changes into that wonderful Northumberland roller-coaster ride, dead straight (except for the bits where it is sharp bends) but steep climbs to blind summits with steep drops behind them. For miles. And miles!
Bellingham is a relief, a stop for fuel, a coffee and lunch. Home-made pea-soup for Liz whilst I went for the healthy option: double bacon, double sausage, fried egg bap. C'mon the bap was brown! And at a fiver something not to be missed!
Despite knowing about the First and Last Brewery I hadn't scheduled a visit, but since the Co-op didn't stock their beers it just had to be done. And it was a lovely and lively tap room. Only a half of something weak for me (definitely not the 11% guest) but the Reiver was excellent. Suffice it to say the van now has even more beers in!
Bellingham was one of the first holidays Liz and I managed without the children (thanks to grand-parents) some 40 years ago. I must say that it doesn't seem to have changed much.
The last 20 or so miles through the Kielder Forest (like the New Forest, far less trees than anticipated) seemed tedious but we arrived at the campsite to learn of two bonuses - if we stand at a precise spot near reception we might be able to access the internet¹ and, more importantly, the pub, just 5 minutes walk up a gravel track, reopened yesterday! No food but definitely beer, and just as importantly somewhere warm and dry as the forecast is set foul for Sunday.
Of course, if it is chucking it down with rain tomorrow we wouldn't want to risk not finding the pub so a reccy was needed. The Anglers Arms is definitely mid-refurb and looks like a holiday campsite pub which is a bit of of place here in the wilds but I suppose its target audience is the campsite (mind you, who will be walkers and ramblers rather than sand-castle builders or candy-flass eaters). Anyway three decent hand pump local beers and Wifi! So Cinderella will get to the blog after all
Remember the opening line of today's entry Well, little to say about Saturday - hasn't it taken a lot of words to say it! And I haven't got to the title yet!
The reason for coming here was Kielder Forest is probably England's best dark-sky site so we were hoping, against the odds, for a clear sky sometime during the late evening. Amazingly we were rewarded. Sadly it really was too cold for me to try and learn astro-photography so no piccies. It was bitterly cold and the exposed campsite was victim of a bitingly cold wind. But around 10:30/11:00 the clouds receeded and there was almost 100% clear star-strewn sky. I think I could just make out the milky way but really needed longer for my pupils to dilate and the blindingly bright moon didn't help. But stars aplenty and my shivering was rewarded by a stunningly bright shooting star. We really do miss so much through light pollution.
The van really is open to the elements
So, bitterly cold, at bedtime, far colder than the 10⁰C the van's thermometer was reporting! A socks on in bed sort of night!
¹ Actually I can sometimes just about get signal in the van. It's patchy and drops quickly but it has allowed a map download and the weather.
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