Monday, 7 October 2024

Normal service will be resumed

Little bit of a hiatus at the moment.

Saturday's entry is 75% done, Sunday won't take too long once I work out how to best include a video I shot, and Monday/Tuesday are driving days so will be short entries anyway. 

But over the weekend our friends' hospitality has been great, which meant chatting well into the evening and no time to sit down and write up the days activities. Heck I didn't even get time to really look at the weekend's Guardian Prize Cryptic crossword! 

So please bear with me and I'll finish this saga (great to use a Norse word when talking about the Shetlands) asap.

To be continued ...

Saturday, 5 October 2024

Mills and Crofts

Right, story about sleeping in the barn last night. 

15 years ago Liz was invited, along with several other ladies from around the world to travel down to the Falklands Islands to operate a women only amateur radio fortnight. A year later 4 of the ladies and a friend met up again to operate a women only radio station from Sumburgh lighthouse. Probably best not to ask why! 

Anyway the Sumburgh trip was organised by Tony and Nicky (one of the lady radio hams) from Dorset who had been to Shetland previously and fallen in love with the place. It came as no real surprise to learn that a year or so later they had quit their jobs in Dorset, sold up and moved to Shetland. And they kindly offered us the use of their drive, house, hospitality etc if we wanted to visit the South of the islands. To help get us out of any wind (and Shetland does have some sometimes!) they made space in their huge barn for us. 
Tony works as a custodian at the nearby museum Quendale Mill and was on duty today. So we popped over for a visit, and were there probably 2 hours. It has all sorts of fascinating exhibitions as well as the impressive mill itself. One really interesting display was the account of the 1993 MV Braer oil tank spill very nearby. Lots of original press cuttings, video footage of rescue attempts, details of just how the disaster happened etc 
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MV_Braer

The mill itself is an overshot water mill, currently only not operational because of a dry mill pond (and probably lack of expertise to run it).
Unusually it has a larger fixed threshing machine. In most places the threshing was done in situ at the farm with a portable machine and only the grain taken to the mill. Then the threshed grain is dried before being milled, once to remove the husk (which is winnowed away) and finally to produce the end product of flour or oatmeal. Interesting to go the the floor below and see all the various drive belts and gearings, more than I thought.

Chance for Liz to play the islander
 That's a small but traditional kishie, used for carrying pretty much anything, especially things like peat and potatoes. Interesting that it is worn with a breast-strap, not shoulder straps. The free arms and hands, should if course have knitting in them.
 After all that work carrying that kishie a rest in a hooded chair in front of a peat fire is called for. The free hands and arms ...

We leave but don't get far because in the tiny car park are a group with binoculars and large-lensed cameras. Apparently there's a yellow billed warbler hereabouts. For a couple of minutes I too stand there scanning the rare bits of shrubbery but the bird declined to put in a quick appearance so I declined to put in a long wait.

On up to Hoswick where the community centre will provide tea and cake (or possibly something more substantial). We'll put down the server's near rudeness to panicking under the stress of having 3 customers at the same time!

Look what we have here
Puffins and ponies made by our host Nicky. An interesting way to provide a little extra pin money.

Suitably refreshed we go back down to the Croft Museum. Like much of the highlands and islands Shetland suffered from Victorian landlords enforcing serfdom and effecting clearances. Many of the islanders emigrated, Australia and New Zealand being the main choices. Anyway apparently in the 1960s some hame fairin' New Zealanders realised that the old Shetland crofts were disappearing and started to campaign for the preservation of one. So in 1971 the museum opened to preserve this old traditional 'but' (kitchen and living area) and 'ben' (bedroom) croft which had been lived in right up until the 1962, but the restoration has aimed for a traditional 1880s look.

It's a cramped space and there were a few other visitors (I think it closes for the winter from next week) so I took few pictures but it would be cold and draughty so furniture was designed to combat this as much as possible - like this bed.

We had visited when last on Shetland and when I commented to Liz that it didn't appear to have changed the custodian was pleased! Cold, probably damp, certainly smoky, and in winter the cow (at least) living in the byre, the third room in the long building supposedly a form of modified Viking longhouse, this can't have been the most pleasant of dwellings.

Onwards - we want to go down to Scatness (the archaeology now reburied) and possibly walk as far as the scenic Ness Of Burgi. Of course, to do this we have to drive over the runway at Sumburgh airport. I wonder how many other runways are traffic light controlled for crossing vehicles.

It looks like rain and we are out tonight so we dip out on that walk and return back to our hosts. Dinner is at the country house Sumburgh Hotel, just 5 mins from the airport. It's busy and the restaurant is booked pretty much all evening so we have an early sitting. Given it is a fairly prestigious hotel prices are good, on par, or even less the most mainland pubs!

Anyway here we are


Clockwise from the left hostess Nicky, Liz, host Tony, my good self, and Nicky's son Marcus. The food is good - my only complaint with the meal is that Tony paid despite me insisting previously that it would be my treat! And he paid for lunch down at Skipidock a week or so ago! Shetlanders are known as genial and generous hosts and in the 12 or 13 years or so Tony and Nicky have lived here they've certainly become picked up the Shetland customs and way of life. I can definitely see the attractions of island life.


59 miles today, just pottering around the south of the mainland isle




 







Friday, 4 October 2024

Friday - Barnstorming

A short post today. A quiet day, no workshops and a social evening, no blogging time. 

Run back into Lerwick to visit two museums and do some last minute shopping.

Museums.

Firstly the tiny Textiles Museum in the Bod (small fishing store/house) of Gremista (coastal part of Lerwick), formerly the home of Arthur Anderson, co-founder of P&O. The building is small but packs a lot into it's two floors including demonstrations. There's one of the last Shetland tweed looms (last that is until the recent revival), there's a replica of a lace shawl that HRH Elizabeth II commissioned as a gift for the Empress of Japan. A lady teaches me a trick to get started with drop-spindle spinning (I fancy weaving with a small amount of self-spun yarn included). The museum is small and busy so not conducive to photos. I'd apologise for the lack but doubt anyone is overly bothered! 

Now on to the main Museum of Shetland. We've been in and out of the building all week as it hosts the Wool Week hub but not had the opportunity to explore. What a cracking museum this is, right up there amongst the best we've visited. Geology and tectonic evolution of the islands, a great display on bronze age, and then the Vikings before moving on through to last century and also the islands' maritime culture. To be honest we didn't see it all, there was so much that we were 'museumed-out' after the marine section so didn't venture up to the first floor where it may have modern history and possibly the oil boom (but we don't know, we didn't go, remember) 

Lovely to see this 150 year old band loom
and braces that may well have been woven on it
Sorry it's my area of interest! 

As well as the museum there was a photographic exhibition  of 1970's Fair Isle fashion by Chris Morphet (who got the idea after seeing The Who's Pete Townshend perform at the Marquee Club in a Fair Isle tank top). Some cracking photos but here's two I particularly liked
Shopping. 

Liz got caught as the wind blew the rear door shut yesterday and has a nasty gash on her forearm. The van has some dressings but Boots provide extra. 

But the real shopping was to find some reestit mutton - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reestit_mutton

A small piece will now be heading south with us.

We've been putting up photos of our evening views. Here's tonight's
We've never parked in a barn before but we're staying with radio ham friends Tony and Nicky and the barn will keep the chill wind off. 

They've dined us and entertained us, including a fascinating film about an aging Shetland crofter 
https://clavelthefilm.wordpress.com/

But back in the van now, a quick blog and then hopefully 30 mins read before bedtime

Today's 40 miles




Thursday - things that go bump in the day

That beautiful wild camping spot overlooking the tombolo was because we both have classes in the neighbouring village community hall. This morning Liz is learning about Makkin' Belts and Reapin' Strings whilst this afternoon I'm going to have a go at whittling a shawl pin. Fun stuff eh. 

Even the view from the hall is nice

Makkin' Belts are, I think, unique to Shetland. They are a leather belt with like a small closed leather cushion with holes in on it. One long knitting needle is firmly held in place inside the cushion so it frees one arm up a bit when knitting whilst walking out working. Shetland has long been dependent on its knitted garment trade so knitting was and still is very much part of everyday life (for some men as well as the women). Liz doesn't think a belt would be useful for her but she might as well give one a try. Reapin' string just turns out to be a bog standard bit of string used to help with tension and taking the weight of the knitting whilst walking.

There is WiFi in the hall but it doesn't seem to permeate the building. In the car park by the van there is no internet connection but we did notice a spot further up the car park where 4g peeked through. Talk about patchy, because the 4g connection is both reliable and fast.

Anyway I move the van into an empty bay of parking spaces with a huge turning area behind me. Yes, you can guess what's coming, I'm sitting in the front seat enjoying the luxury of reliable internet and bang! the van shakes as someone runs into me. Since he drove into a space 3 away from me I have no idea why he happend to be reversing at that point. Fortunately it was a low speed coming together of bumpers so no real damage done but I will have the tedious task of removing his light grey paint from the deep scuffs in my black bumper. Life, eh?

The community have put on a community lunch and a good spread too. Pretty much everything homemade, 4 different soups, bread, bannocks, cakes, sandwiches, drinks - yeah nice simple fare but excellent and good to be able to pay a little to help the community.


After lunch I went to view some of the samples of local craft

My whittlng class was fun, we drew our own designs and they were roughly cut out before we whittled away at the details. Everyone's turned out well, most better than mine. Oh, and like yesterday's crochet class I was the only bloke ) except for today's tutor)
Mine's the small lighter coloured one, top of the middle row. No accidents either although we did all wear a steel reinforced glove on the non- cutting hand.

Tonight we decided on a campsite; we can get a shower (with some luck and people standing upwind of us we can make it home before the next one). We can also empty the loo and fully charge the leisure battery. We have had a problem in the past and this battery is poor at holding charge. It loses so much over a couple of days sometimes even the solar panel can't top it up. I suspected that might be the case, now it has been confirmed, time for as new one when we get home. 

The Cunningsburgh campsite has all the facilities (except WiFi!) and £20 a night is reasonable. Views are OK too 
But no 4g again and no WiFi. Not a problem, apart for those trying to publish their blogs! Or plan the next three days! Still we know vaguely what we are doing tomorrow. 

Just the 14 miles back up towards Lerwick today